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& Road Conditions |
About the Ice |
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Dribbles Area
The Dribbles Area includes a group of climbs on the east side of Hylite Canyon, ranging from between 1.5 - 2 miles from the Parking Lot. The climbs are listed from North to South. The approach for all climbs is up the Hyalite Creek Trail to just past the clearing which marks the turnoff to Twin Falls. The frist .5 mile of this trail can be confusing due to the Grotto Falls Handicap Trial. Avoid the zigzags by staying on the Hyalite Creek Trail, and choosing the steepest alternative at each trail junction.
Rocket Boy- WI 6, 5.10+, 250'
Approach- Hike up Hyalite canyon 1.5 miles to the small clearing which marks the trail which turns
off to Twin Falls; then continue 1/4 mile, where the trail crosses a small drainage
gulley. A view of the climb is possible at this point by looking up
through the trees for the ice- generally a dagger hanging from a
curtain. To get there, continue up the trail an additional 150 yds, then head left
(east) at the "Arch Falls" signed turnoff. Pass the first rockbands on 3rd class moves, then
traverse left on ramps and ledges. Where the ledges run out, go up around
an outcrop of rotten rock to a small saddle. The drainage spits
out across a short steep slab to the left of this saddle. 1.5 hours from
the car.
P1: (5.9) traverse left and ascend (15 ' total) to a ledge/ramp
leading left and up into the gulley. Clamber snow/ice up to a two bolt
belay in a small bowl.
P2: (WI6+ 5.10+) Traverse up and left on awkward ledges until at a
ledge below the rockwall and ice dagger. Drytool with three bolts to
behind the dagger. Blast out from behind for 60 ' to the belay.
Descent- rappel the route.
FA
Responsible Family Men- WI 4+, 5.3, 180'
This climb has a good location, forms early, and is far enough away to avoid crowds on most
days.
Approach- Hike up Hyalite canyon 1.5 miles to the small clearing which marks the trail which turns
off to Twin Falls; then continue .3 mile further on the trail ( about 150
yd. past the "Arch Falls" sign ) before heading uphill to the left (east). When a
view becomes possible, aim for a distinct gash in the cliff above. ( It is the first significant
gash in this large wall since Winter Dance; the
second gash leads to Avalanche Gully.) Enter this gash and continue up to the
base of the climb. 2+ hours from the car.
Climb- The climb
lies in a high and spectacular bowl above here. Scramble up to the left
side of the climb and belay at the beginning of a ledge which traverses in
50 ft of awkward, but easy climbing. Use double ropes AND a long sling
at the bottom of the ice to avoid ropedrag. It is also possible to
traverse in from the right.
Descend off of a pin and/or an abalokov anchor.
FA
Teenage Delinquents- M9, 180'
Bolted direct start to Responsible Family Men.
FA
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| Dribbles Area as viewed from across the canyon.
A-Rocket Boy B- Responsible Family Men C- Avalanche Gully D- Dribbles E- Silken Slot F- The Climb Above Dribbles |
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Avalanche Gully- WI 5, 600'
The name tells you when not to be here!
Approach as for Dribbles, then traverse left 50 yds to a large drainage
which cuts through the cliffs above.
P1: a short pitch, up curtain. Hasn't formed recently.
P2: the goods. 150' WI 4 narrrow runnel in the middle of this pitch.
fixed belay.
P3-5: take the left fork and continue up rolling terrain...
Descent- is by rappelling the route on fixed pins and v-threads.
FA
Dribbles- WI3+, 260'
Approach- Hike a total of 2 miles up the Hyalite Creek Trail, 1/4 mile past the
sign marking the trail to Arch Falls. Leave the trail at
a clearing immediately after the trail crosses a small creek. Head left (
east ) uphill to the base of the climb. 1+ hours from the car.
P1: WI 3 40' start at a short steep step (avoidable by angling in from the left).
P2: WI 2 60' up gulley.
P3: WI 3+ 150' begins with a steep step and rolls back to a ledge.
P4: WI 2 60' follow steepening slab to trees.
Descent is by traversing left and descending Avalanche gulley via one
or two rappels and some downclimbing, or by rappelling the route (double
ropes necessary to rappel from the top of P3). FA
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Meg Hall and Supy Bullard at the start of pitch 3 of The Dribbles. |
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Silken Slot- WI3, 250'
This climb has an avalanche hazard from the gully above, especially
during storms.
Approach as for Dribbles, then traverse 30 yd right. Two variations are possible,
one deep in the chimney to the left and
the other a rampy and rolly flow on the right. 2 pitches.
Descend as for Dribbles, or rappel the route.
FA
The Climb Above Dribbles- WI 6, 230'
This climb is actually in the
drainage above Silken Slot. The second pitch rarely forms, but is often
very close. Beware of avalanche hazard in the gulley approaching the climb.
Approach-
Climb Dribbles and traverse right, or climb Silken Slot and
continue up the gulley for an hour. Veer right up the first pitch shortly
below a rockband.
P1: WI4 200' Leave the gulley heading right below where the main gulley
becomes cliffed out anyway, on often thin ice.
P2:WI 6 80' A dagger of ice hanging over a cave.
Descend by rappeling the route.
FA
Silken Skein Falls- WI2+, 80'
Approach- Hike up the Hyalite Creek Trail for slightly over two
miles. A post and sign marks the turnoff to Silken Skein Falls.
Two short rolling ice steps constitute the climb.
FA
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| The Climb Above Dribbles- Check that thing out Carefully before you jump on it! |
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Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs
Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.
Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com
