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& Road Conditions |
About the Ice |
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This area is the most popular and hence crowded in Hyalite. The focal point of this activity is the Diversions, a series of columns to the right of Genesis I. On weekends it is not uncommon to find 20 people milling about the base of the climbs, with 5 topropes set up and all of them occupied. Late arriving climbers needn’t despair at all the downtime, however: there are a selection of other climbs in the area within a 15 min. walk.
The Genesis climbs are distinctive in Hyalite, and they have a few distinctive hazards to consider:
Falling Ice- With the festive atmosphere at the Diversions, its easy to forget that ice is continually falling and bombarding belayers and observers. Those on the ground are responsible for not getting under falling ice, not the climber above- he or she is busy climbing!
Poor Quality Ice — High volume water flow and cold temperatures can make the ice here less than perfect. Look for a solid core sample coming out of the back of the screw, and be particularly suspicious if the screw becomes suddenly easier to place.
Belaying -Use calls to identify your belayer or climber , and decide whether the climber will lower off the pitch, rap, or walk off before the climber leaves the ground. Be attentive of your climber, not that cute chick (or guy) you’re yammering with.
Inexperienced Climbers- The Diversions are the first place many people climb; hence keep an eye out for any unusual hazards that they may expose you to. If you are an experienced climber and see a party creating a truly dangerous situation, bring it to their attention in a non-critical, non-judgemental way. Climbers of all abilities should be willing to listen to advice from others and consider altering their ‘modus operandi’ [Likewise remember-you and you alone are responsible for your own safety and good time! Use your own judgement!]
Approaches for all climbs begin by going to Genesis I. From the parking lot, walk back down the road for 30 yds., take a trail on the right side of the road and walk up through clear cuts for 1/4 mile to the base of ‘G 1 and the Diversions’. 10 mins even with a hangover.
Genesis I (WI 3+) & The Diversions (WI 4-5+) GI is the second climb from the left of the row of climbs. (The far left climb, Willow Gully, flows out of an bushy patch at the top of the cliff) It forms reasonably early and has reasonably good ice. The Diversions are the 4 or 5 flows to the right. Everything can be toproped with one 60-m rope off of trees with fixed slings above the climbs. To reach the top of the climbs, walk around to the right. FA
Genesis II- WI 3+, 165'
Located in the same drainage, about 1/2 hour of snow wallowing above GI.
The first 100' is also a good practice/ teaching area for several ropes.
Approach- Climb GI; or walk around GI to the right to access the
route.
Climb up the first 120' ; it is possible to traverse off the
climb here into the trees on the left, or continue through a small bulge
to the top.
Descend by walking off to left, or rappel the route.FA
Zack Attack- IV, WI 5-, 5.8
This is in the same drainage as the Genesis climbs, but much higher in the
gulley. The rock on the first pitch is good, but worse on the next pitch.
Approach- Continue above GII for about an hour.
P1: 5.8, WI 4, 150' Climb ice in the back of a corner/gulley, then exit
right across a tricky slab, then back left to the belay.
P2: 5.4, 120' Climb around a small amphitheatre via a chossy gulley on the
right, then towards a dribble of ice on the short wall above.
P3: WI 4+, 70' Thin ice over rock to pass a step in the gully.
P4: WI 5, 100' A short but fierce curtain without much ice.
Descent- Rap the route. FA
Clump Tree Gulley- WI 2, 60'
Approach- traverse left on a well beaten trail for 100yds from the
base of G1. FA
Thru for More- WI 4 R
Approach- From Genesis 2, hike off-trail left and slightly uphill for about
150 yds. This climb forms in varying degrees each year. Start on a short bulge of thin
ice, which kicks back to thicker rolling ice, 60’ total. Belay off
old, bad pins in a small alcove. Public Service Bolts, anyone?
FA
Hangover- WI3, 150' Approach- continue past Clump Tree Gulley to the left (north, down-canyon) and uphill, to a rock buttress with a talus slope below it. The ice pours from a clieft in the rock buttreses. 1 pitch. Descent- Rappel from small trees. FA
Greensleeves- WI3+, 270'
Approach- yet another 100yds. left ( north, downcanyon ) of Hangover,
lies a distinct creek drainage. Follow upwards to the climb.
Climb-The bottom rambles up steps of ice. Upper
Greensleeves splits into two climbs, the left being more popular. Belay
at a safe stance on the left.
Descent- Both climbs end in trees for a
rappel.
FA
Slepping Giant Falls- off to the left of Greensleeves somewhere??? FA
Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs
Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.
Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com
