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& Road Conditions |
About the Ice |
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The Mummies Area
The Mummies area includes all the climbs
on the west-facing side, downcanyon from the side valley which splits off
of main Hyalite just north of Winter Dance. These are very accessible
climbs, with approaches under 30 minutes except for the Upper Mummies,
which are about 1 hr. from the parking lot.
Approach- Hike up the
trail about 1/2 mile, avoiding the handicap-accessible zigzags of the Grotto Falls Trail. and trail to
Grotto Falls . A small "clearing" on the left side of the
trail (actually a talus slope) leads up to a short rock wall. Little
Climbs by the Trail are located here, one at either end of the wall.
Little climbs by the Trail- WI 3+/4- 60'
Mummy 1- WI 2, 60'
A scrappy little climb.
Approach- Traverse left from
the Little climbs by the Trail 100yds through dense forest to
another talus slope/ small cliff combo similar to the Little Climbs by the
Trail. The climb flows across this rock.
FA
Mummy 2- WI 3+,160'
Lies in the same drainage as Mummy 1, but the
easiest approach is not up the creekbed.
Approach- Go to Mummy 1. From the craggy bluff to
the right of Mummy 1,
work up the rib to the right of the drainage until a rock strata and a few
very large downed trees mark the traverse left into a small amphitheater
below this climb and The Scepter. 45 minutes from the car.
Climb up the apron of ice to a
steep section at the top. Several small, bushy, but worthwhile toprope
problem exist to the right and left. To top-rope the Scepter or
Mummy 2, walk and scramble around to the right.
FA
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The Upper Mummies. |
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The Scepter- WI 5-, 100'
This climb is a classic testpiece.
Approach- 100 ' left of Mummy 2.
Start in a cave to the left of the base of the climb.
Blast up 40 feet of vertical ice (sometimes weird ice) to a stance, then up
ice which is a
little more kicked back to the top. It is just barely possible to top-rope
with 60m rope, but you will need to place a directional.
FA
Upper Mummies- WI5, 300'
These two pitches can form up fat ( In which
case they are WI4 and 5, respectively) or thin (5.8 R & WI 6 R,
respectively) Unfortunately, their ground-water source has been drying up
in recent years. Their stellar position is obvious .5 miles up the trail
on the left- the steep filament of Mummy 4 hangs over the canyon.
Approach- ascend or go around Mummy 2, then follow
the drainage (or stay next to the drainage) above the Scepter. 1 hour from
Mummy 2.
In thin conditions, this climb requires rock gear.
Descend by rappeling fixed anchors. FA
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Patrick Knoll on thin ice on the first pitch of Upper Mummies. |
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Cave and Gully, and several other climbs to the Right of Mummy 2- WI 2-
WI6, all 100' long
If the Mummies Area is already occupied, these climbs offer a great
escape from the crowds.
Approach-Contour right from Mummy 2. The first climb encountered is
a small WI 2 climb in a slot. Shortly after this, a climb in a cave and
up a corner can be very easy or very difficult, depending on how much ice
it has. Still further to the right are two WI 3 pitches which end in trees.
FA
Alex Lowe Pillar- WI 5
This climb is located on the left side of the drainage between the Mummies Area
and the Winterdance Area.
FA
Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs
Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.
Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com
