Spaghetti & Meatballs

Submitted by JoJo on Tue, 03/19/2013 - 13:57

Posting this on behalf of Daniel Burson. Having backed off that chockstone pitch, I can say it is a fine piece of climbing.


On March 16, Aaron Mulkey, Shawn Gregory and I set out to climb the pitches above Spaghetti Falls in East Rosebud, hoping we could take the route to the plateau. I had previously climbed three distinct steps and pitches above the main flow but had not explored the remaining 1200ft or so of elevation left to climb. 

Above the main pitch (60m, WI4), we found a 40m step of WI2, a 30m pitch of WI3, and then a split in the gully. There are single pins with cord at the top of the WI2 and WI3 steps to facilitate rappers. After exploring the right branch and finding no ice, we continued up the left fork to the "chockstone pitch". This pitch provided 30m of WI5 with a bit of 5.6ish rock to exit right at the top. It appeared that in a better year ice would cover enough ground to allow a left-hand exit on ice. 
The gully continued through snow and a few more short ice steps until one could see a large ice flow on the right wall. This flow actually forms from a seep in the wall and goes nowhere; just to climber's left of it, however, is a hidden gully with a 65m pitch that climbs two short steps in the WI4+ range. Above this pitch, we found a long section of typical Beartooth "chossaineering". I chose a path that seemed to provide the easiest line, starting on the left and continuing through a short chimney high on the pitch. There were thin trickles of ice throughout the pitch which would suggest it may go as more of a mixed ice/rock pitch in better ice years. Overall, it felt like 5.10 loose, with surprisingly good gear. From a sloping ledge belay roughly 65m up, one can exit right to the skyline and escape difficulties to reach the plateau. 
I have inquired among knowing parties as to whether anyone has taken Spaghetti to the plateau, but no one can confirm it has been done. I am typically reluctant to name things in the Beartooths, seems someone has always been there before you, but, in the spirit of fun, I thought maybe "Meatballs" would be a good name for this extension. So if you are ever in the Beartooths and want a good long day, hop on Spaghetti and Meatballs (WI4 and WI5 5.10 respectively).