Nate Opp and I ventured up to Responsible Family Man on Monday. The conditions were ideal - warm sunny weather and very sticky ice. Compared to previous years, the ice is in quite thick.
From the upper belay we sighted an alpha mountain goat on the terrace between RFM and Winter Dance. This fellow was very strong and a real treat to see. If I was a goat and I wanted to nibble lichen, the warm scree slopes would be the pefect location. Tis a plseasure to see wild animals wihlst climbing wild ice.
To ensure that we all can be Responsible Climbers (and not do the Desmond Dekker) I added one bolt to the bolt / pin belay. Before one jumps onto the high horse regarding the validity of a second bolt please consider... the titanium pin pulled out with a gentle tug. The bolt is beef and is equalized to a Metolius Rap hanger.
From a snow safety standpoint, the snow is well consolidated, compresses well underfoot and does not exhibit the freeze dried funk we get with dry cold. Several parties have climbed this over the weekend and there is nice boot track till the next storm.
My .02 cents? We are in for a banner year!
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