Luck of the Magic

Submitted by kephoto on Wed, 11/15/2006 - 10:29
Some things are best left to the luck of odds. Typically I would play by the rules of the hunt, those that haven?t had the opportunity to lead the route would get the first go at putting up the rope. In this case first tracks on such a classic left Adam Knoff calling Black Diamond and myself claiming title to the plastic lettering, ?do not load? as I flipped the carabineer into the air. I couldn?t just give away first tracks, not today, the biner landed, ?Do Not Load" faced the sky and it was my lead. I guess the Luck of the Magic was on my side. From the base of Black Magic my thoughts bounced to both sides of the spectrum. First, the fear of how my face might look as I cleaned the volumes of ice dangling above, slowly inching my way up the route. Then to the beauty rising above me, climbing one of the best routes in the canyon, the movement through Hyalite?s ?good? rock, first tracks of the season, all of this further defining why we climb in Hyalite. Adam made quick work following the route and my wife Cloe and Ted Wood both dispatched as well. In the end I wore only one small nick on my nose with good times had by all. Thanks for picking up the camera Adam! This is one route not to miss! Kristoffer Erickson [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/CLI_0057.gif[/img]

I could not agree more. The best route i've done to date in Hyalite. Get it while the getting's good. Technical and intimidating, but in rather "soft" conditions...5.9-/WI5- IMHO. I used the spectrum of rock gear; cams, nuts, a tricam and a piton (almost wish i'd had a hex or two). Enjoy... ...and the jams are sweet!