Upper Mummy, Silken Slot, & Beyond

Submitted by MtnManMatt on Thu, 01/18/2007 - 16:45
This might belong in the "Lost & Found" forum, but i left my lunch at the base of Mummy IV on Tues. That thing is in !stout! conditions right now possibly WI6. Looks nothing like any of the guidebook pics. Weds climbed Silken Slot via 3 pitches by staying in the slot all the way up to the top - finishing 2 gullies left of the "keyhole". I think we climbed a variation of the route described in detail in the guidebook, although multiple variations are eluded to in the route intro. Found great alpine-like climbing with a finishing crux somewhere in the M4/5.7 WI4 range (similar in difficulty to the Thrill is Gone). From across the way it looked like Airborn Ranger was brought down by the cold temps (or the Forest Service). The Shimmy seems to still be hanging in there though. The road is $ right now and there was even an Outback in the lot. ************************************************************* I would also like to reiterate JoJo's encouragement to get involved in saving Hyalite in whatever way you can. Someone else is not going to do it for you! By this time next year, [i]this[/i] season could be known as the end of an era for Hyalite ice climbing! ************************************************************* [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/UpperMummys-A.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/Mummy4-A.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/SilkenSlot-A1.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/SilkenSlot-A2.jpg[/img] [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/SilkenSlot-A3.jpg[/img]

I was lucky enough to have my bro in town for a few days and took the opportunity to sight in my rope gun... [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/j.JPG[/img] Thanks to Ben W who belayed the long pitch and gracioulsy allowed me to follow! Whew!!!! [img]http://montanaice.com/forums/user_images/joel.JPG[/img] the pillar detached when my friend Tyler Jones attempted to follow the amazing lead, a hard earned tick on definite 6 ice rock on joel! -neil kauffman