Flanders drainage conditions report

Submitted by kephoto on Tue, 12/14/2004 - 08:46
:wink: I was up in Flanders drainage this weekend poking around looking to see what was in and what wasn't. Here are some observations on what I found. Narcolepsy- not in but plenty of ice on the top so it could make an appearance later in the year Killer Pillar- In and FAT Bobo Like - Looking good The Big Sleep- Looking great! The top third pitch looks like it's making an appearance. It's a rare ascent to make the climb to the true top of this route. Another to get while the getting is good! Code Red- In and touching. A nice thin pillar now. have fun. Kristoffer Erickson

I just recieved an email from Bill D, who was up in the area around the Big Sleep on Sun and confirmed that the 2nd pitch pillar is not touching down on the Big Sleep. I thought I should elaborate on my "Looking Great" remark for the Big Sleep. Having done the route a few times in similar conditions I thought the hanging nature of the pillar was of the norm for the pitch but for those of you expecting to find a touching pillar, beware it's a few spicy moves. There was an old pin at the base of the pillar, as a caveat the pin was a small knifeblade and marginal at best. Once on the ice you should have plenty to choose from for good gear. During the ascents I've made on the route the third pitch has never looked as large as it does now. Only observations on the conditions at this point but since it hasn't formed in a few years I thought I would get some info out about this great climb in case others have been watching the progress. Have fun! Kristoffer Erickson :lol:

To elaborate on Kris' thoughts, here is some gear beta for the second and third pitches of the Big Sleep. This info is over two weeks old now, there may be more ice. 2nd pitch: The fixed pin behind the pillar is quite solid. Clip it with long runner. Add a #1 and #2 camalot behind a solid flake (a bit higher) and you'll have solid pro to gain the ice. This is from the right side of the pillar. 3rd pitch: Nate found some decent rock gear in the chossy middle section of the pitch. This gear included a thick blade pounded into the mud and a orange metolius tcu. It seemed ok. Getting back onto the ice was maybe m5? Our v-thread is probably gone by now. Just a heads-up... enjoy! :lol: A. Hjelt

On Sunday, Joe Joe, Kris and I climbed what we think is a new route in Flanders drainage. We hiked up only to find all three of the Big Sleep, Bobo Like, and Killer Pillar with groups on them already ( damn guidebook authors! stinking ice conditions website! ). So we chose to wander amongst the climbs on the opposite side of the canyon, above Champagne Sherbert. We found: 1) Flanders Field to be mossy slabby, and thin. 2) Fact or Flander still lacked enough ice in the upper pillar part to make it into an "ice" climb. 3) The diminutive climbes Ice Miser and Slick Willy were miserly with their quantity of climbing in general. 4) about 150 yards left (east ) of the previous two, we found a smear of ice in an erosional chimmney in the cobble rock. The rock was actually good, for Hyalite Canyon. [img]http://montanaice.com/images/free-as-it-gets1.jpg[/img] Erickson did the honors to deflower this pitch. After observing Joe climb it, I determined to do it [i]sans piolet[/i]. Hence its name - [i] As Free As It Gets[/i] . This climb is clearly visible up and left from [i]High Crimes and Misdemeanors[/i], as seen from the upper end of the Flanders "Meadow" (read "clearcut"). :P Ratings: III, 5.8, R, A3-level protection, E1, :shock: ; or WI 3 in fat conditions, 55 meters. Hyalite provides.
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