Hello,
I'm seeking beta for Hilgard Peak in the Madison Range - difficulty, gear needed, etc. Also looking for partner(s) for a possible ascent this summer. It's the higest peak in Montana outside the Beartooths.
Thanks
Phil Knight
the approach is the crux make sure you have enough time. Twice I've gotten in view and ran out of time. the rock looks solid but the surrounding mountains all have lots of choss and I doubt if the route sees enough trafic to be "clean" I've heard there are rap anchors. a thin rope might might be a good idea for the decent. I've made the approach to Hilgard from both the west and south x country to avoid a long trek up the hilgard basin. plan at least two days unless you can cover many miles very quickly. cheers it's a cool looking mountain.
Tobias,
Thanks for the advice! Indeed, part of he allure of this peak is its remoteness and the fact it is seldom climbed. Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone recommends the Avalanche Lake/Lake Eglise approach. I would probably plan a 4 day trip to allow time and weather contingencies.
It's amazing to me that Dave Wessel made the first ascent alone, in one day!!
Phil
The Lake Eglise approach is definitely the quickest but if you're planning on 4 days you could make a loop of it. We did that in 3 days (one long and two short days, with perfect weather). The only downside to that plan is hiking the boulder field "as far as the eye can see" to the north east of Hilgard with a full pack. But, it's beautiful and 4 days would give you the time to enjoy it. I really don't think ropes or gear are necessary to climb the east side. The rock is actually quite good and there are some printed route descriptions that will tell you how to get up there. But, a topo map and knowing how to read it is a must. If you want to explore other peaks in the area, then gear may be necessary, and expect loose rock. There is a huge alpine ice couloir just on the north east side of Hilgard that would be fun, but by no means necessary.
1. Climbing the east side:
2. Looking up from the North East, hiking the boulder field, with the ice couloir visible in the center.
Alex,
Thanks much for the advice and photos. You mentioned printed route descriptions - any idea where to find those? I'm pretty familiar with the country around there, having climbed and skied Echo Peak and backpacked through the area a few times.
Phil
Hi Phil, Hilgard is not
Hi Phil,
Hilgard is not difficult if you don't mind exposure, probably don't need any gear, at most it's class IV easy class V.
cheers,
HJ
Hilgard rock
Hilgard
the approach is the crux make sure you have enough time. Twice I've gotten in view and ran out of time. the rock looks solid but the surrounding mountains all have lots of choss and I doubt if the route sees enough trafic to be "clean" I've heard there are rap anchors. a thin rope might might be a good idea for the decent. I've made the approach to Hilgard from both the west and south x country to avoid a long trek up the hilgard basin. plan at least two days unless you can cover many miles very quickly. cheers it's a cool looking mountain.
Hilgard approach
More on Hilgard
The Lake Eglise approach is definitely the quickest but if you're planning on 4 days you could make a loop of it. We did that in 3 days (one long and two short days, with perfect weather). The only downside to that plan is hiking the boulder field "as far as the eye can see" to the north east of Hilgard with a full pack. But, it's beautiful and 4 days would give you the time to enjoy it. I really don't think ropes or gear are necessary to climb the east side. The rock is actually quite good and there are some printed route descriptions that will tell you how to get up there. But, a topo map and knowing how to read it is a must. If you want to explore other peaks in the area, then gear may be necessary, and expect loose rock. There is a huge alpine ice couloir just on the north east side of Hilgard that would be fun, but by no means necessary.
1. Climbing the east side:
2. Looking up from the North East, hiking the boulder field, with the ice couloir visible in the center.
Hilgard topos
Re: Hilgard topos
Phil, I sent you a PM. I think the description I used was from "Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone".