Madison, Gallatin, Absaroka Mountain Ranges

Steve Trafton and I climbed the Sphinx on Tuesday the 27th.  We had full winter blizzard conditions and good ice.  All the routes up there are in.

I had one windloaded pocket rip and slide when I triggered it, but other than that the conditions were stable on the approach across the north face.  Note that it snowed a lot that day and there was significant windloading happening all day.  Be careful with all the new snow!

whit

Any word on the Sphinx this year yet? Any route would be good, but the Lowe Direct sounds good if in. Looking to get out there this fall before the snow really piles up! Any heads up would be great.

Hola from pdx,

Hey I am stuck in portland and thinking that it is starting to get to be time for the beehive to be in shape...anyone been out there skiing and have a photo of the face? Regular route?

Thanks

Bryan Schmitz

On friday a group of us drove up into pine creek. The road was a little snow covered and rutted from just  before the camp to the campground. We were able to drive all the way to the camp ground in a Subaru Outback with a little dragging. We climbed at Blue and Green Gully. The ice was in good shape after you got past the huge plates on the surface. The snow up to the climbs was firm enough to walk on with post holing too much.

FA? "Contact Falls" IV, WI 3+,150'. (R.B.,L.R.,O.E.) 2/10/09

See also: Spray post "Good training for ninjas", I don't think I'm stepping on any toes by giving away this "new" spot.

For all you jonesers wanting some first ascents listen up!

Olin and I climbed the gully to the right of "Black gully".  It sits about 20-30 feet to the right on the same cliff.  We climbed it in 2 piches, the first being sustained M4 with some loose rock to an alcolve (we cleaned a lot of it up).  The second short pitch climbs up and left to a pin we fixed at the crux (M6).  It ends at a tree belay.    Loren R.

Has anyone ever done any climbs up the West Boulder or any of its side drainages? Big friggin country back there. These are up in Falls Creek on the north facing (right) side. Snowpack was pretty thin and not too much wind loading. Its only a modest 10 miles in. A highly recommended 2 day outing if you want some punishment and a little ice to climb.

Amy Barwick and I climbed these last Wednesday.

(picture isn't working hopefully the link will)

Cold weather has been good for the Cottonmouth. Loren and I got above the inversion and were climbing on nice sticky ice in decent temps. It's thin but in pretty good shape. The last few feet are a bit muddy and lacking of ice, but that should change shortly; it sounds like the temps are supposed to stay cold. 

-Olin

I am heading in that direction this weekend and was wondering if anyone could give me a little info on conditions of these climbs.

Spent Saturday checking out the possibilities of the Pine Creek drainage, Blue, Green and Pine Creek were flowing strong as smears were beginning to form around the Gash, the best climbing was found above Jewel Lake the first lake in the Pine Creek lake cascade sequence. Super fun times and definitely some great October ice Climbing.