Hyalite Canyon
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Approach- Hike up the Hyalite Canyon trail about a mile and a half. In the first .5 mile a handicap-accessible trail switchbacks across the main trail several times, which confuses things. To stay on the main Hyalite Creek Trail keep following the trail that takes the steep grade, rather than zigzagging ( on a trail called the Grotto Falls Trail ). After 1.5 miles, the trail enters a small clearing with with a good view of Winter Dance on the east side of the canyon and Palace Butte on the west side.

At this point, hopefully there will be a trail already broken; and hopefully, it will follow the best path to the climbs; but if not, don’t worry; follow the description below and remember that your approach will be bounded to your left by the drainage descending from Twin Falls and above by a series of impassable cliffs, so you can’t get too lost!

From the clearing, leave the Hyalite Creek Trail, dropping down and right. Cross Hyalite Creek and begin ascending the opposite side. Your goal here should be to avoid fallen trees and steep terrain as much as possible, so look around and do a little microscale routefinding. Early season (not much snow) avoid the Twin Falls Creek drainage altogether. Keep well to its right, but you won’t be able to see it because of the dense forest. As you get near the top (evidenced by generally steeper terrain), you can traverse left into the drainage below Cleopatra’s Needle. The terrain here is more wide open, so look for a clearing before moving left. (If you angle left too early, you’ll enter more thick brush.) Wallow up the gully below Cleo’s, then go left again to get to the base of Twin Falls. Again, don’t cut over too early or you will be hating life. 1.5-2 hours from the car.

Late season, it is possible to ski directly up the drainage with only a couple of detours to the right ( North ).

Descents- For all climbs in this area, you can hike to the top of either Twin Falls right or left and make one long rappel with two 60 m ropes to reach the ground- otherwise stop halfway down at a tree on 'climbers left' of the ice.

For Cleo’s, you may want to rappel the route via two rappels. This avoids having to walk over left to the top Twin Falls.

Twin Falls Area as viewed from across the canyon. A-The Matriarch B- Airbourn Ranger  C- Cleopatra's Needle  D- Mark Antony's Wicked Tool  E- The Shimmey   F- Unknown G- Twin Falls   H- The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse
The approach to Twin Falls Area climbing.

The Matriarch- WI 7, 5.10+, R, 300'
This climb has rarely formed, but when it does, it makes for a stellar dribble of ice on the rock wall to the right of Cleo’s and left of a gulley/chimney formation. Pitch 1- WI 7, 5.10+ Figure out how to get onto the ice, then climb a full pitch with minimal pro (short screws? Tied off icicles?). Pitch 2 : WI 5 Finish to the top. FA

Airborne Ranger- WI 5+, 300'
Sometimes a pillar forms 30 ft. right of Cleo’s. Climb the first pitch of Cleo’s, then the pillar to a left facing corner to finish. So named because Alex took an 80 footer when the pillar broke on an early attempt. FA

Cleopatra’s Needle- WI 5, 300'
This is the classic climb of its grade in Hyalite. It appears as a thin needle from across the canyon and from the trail- it may appear to be unformed or unclimbable, but it is usually doable after mid November, though the first pitch ( which is usually fat later in the season) can be very rocky and thin. The second pitch is technical (but with some stances) in early season, and becomes a fat thunker pumpfest later on. There is a cool cave to belay from about 100 ft. up the second pitch; later in the season this becomes an annoying hanging belay- better to fire for the top. The last bit before the tree belay can be snow on slabby rock- insecure! FA

Mark Antony’s Wicked Tool- WI6+ R, 300'
Occaisionally forms 15 ' left of Cleo’s second pitch, a thin, mixed variation. FA

The Shimmey- WI 6, 300'
FA

Twin Falls Left- WI 2 and Right- WI 3, 200'
This is the classic practice and instruction area for Hyalite, despite the long hike. Both sides are one long 60 m pitch. The right side can accommodate up to three 100 ft top ropes, the left side only one. FA

Palace Butte Falls- WI 3
From the top of Twin Falls, continue in the drainage toward the south to the north face of Palace Butte. P1: 165' WI 3
P2: 120' Hard mixed pitch. FA

	Alex Lowe on the first ascent of The Four Horsesmen of the Apocalypse.		...and on the first ascent of The Matriarch.

The Four Horsemen of the Apocolypse WI 6, 250'
Approach- traverse left from the base of Left Twin Falls.
P1:150' climb a narrow pillar followed by more thin climbing.
P2: WI 4
FA

Solstice - WI 4, 230'
This climb lies on the buttress which forms the east side of Elephant Mountain, between the Twin Falls and Elevator Shaft drainages.
Approach- as if going to Twin Falls, then turn right to follow the cliff band to a drainage which splits the east side of Elephant Mountain.
P1:170' WI 4 Continue up drainage a short distance to reach: P2: 60' WI 3 FA

Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs

Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.

Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com