Hyalite Canyon
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About one mile from the parking lot, on the west facing side, a cluster of icicles dangles 2000’ above the canyon floor from the top of a large rock wall. This is Winter Dance,the most obvious climb on this side of Hyalite Canyon. This area includes Winter Dance and the climbs at the base of the wall below it.

Winter Dance- WI 7, 5.9, A1
A high, wild, prominent line overlooking the canyon.
Approach up the trail for 1 mile then turn left into the woods (moderate bushwhacking) up towards the drainage to the left ( North ) of the climb. Angle right ( southeast ) toward the ridge at the edge of the wall as soon as this ridge becomes distinct. Follow this ridge to a point even with the bottom of the climb, then traverse right (4^th class) to the base of the route.
P1: 5.9, WI4+, 150'- A tricky but reasonable pitch angling up and left, then traverse on rock straight left to the belay.
P2: A1, 5.8, 70' An awkward move off the belay gets you to the 12 bolts. 4 bolt anchor on left of the ice.
P3: WI 7, 100' The wild pitch. Zigzag up and right to climb the right margin of the ice to a cave.
P4: WI5+, 120' to the top.
Descend in 2 —60 meter rappels.

Alex Lowe and Vera Wong on Winter Dance

Four Climbs below Winter Dance

These climbs offer a compact collection of climbs at a moderate grade- a worthwhile visit.
Approach- Hike up the Hyalite Canyon trail about a mile and a half. In the first .5 mile a handicap-accessible trail switchbacks across the main trail several times, which confuses things. To stay on the main Hyalite Creek Trail keep following the trail that takes the steep grade, rather than zigzagging ( on a trail called the Grotto Falls Trail ). After 1.5 miles, the trail enters a small clearing with with a good view of Winter Dance on the east side of the canyon and Palace Butte on the west side. At this point, leave the trail, ascending to the left ( east ) towards the base of the wall below Winter Dance.

Alpine-Like- WI 3, 160'
This is the furthest right of these climbs.
Descend by traversing left and rappelling Curtains, or rappel via v-threads.

Curtains- WI 4, 180'
This is the fattest of these climbs, which leads to below Winter Dance. Rappel from a boulder at the right of the top to the climb.

Slot Corner- WI4
Also has a rampy, diminutive first pitch.

Over Easy
Immediately right of the previous climb.

Dialectic Breakdown- WI 5
Furthest left of the climbs on this wall. It begins with an interesting, narrow pillar.

Unnamed Wall | Twin Falls Area | Upper Hyalite Climbs | Dribbles Area Climbs | Winter Dance Area | The Mummies | Genesis Area | Flanders Drainage | East Hyalite Climbs

Ice climbing is dangerous. This guide is provided as a substitute for climbing. I recommend sitting at home behind the TV instead. If you do decide to go ice climbing, you will experience an E6 ( 6 on the Epic scale), which involves quite a bit of suffering, injury, and death.

Comments? Questions? Contact Us: Jimurl@MontanaIce.com