North West Passage @ The Bingo Cave

Submitted by conrad on Wed, 01/14/2009 - 14:58

This is the route exiting the right side of the Bingo World cave. Adam Knoff and I visted the cave in January of 2003 and drilled the first two bolts. As the following images indicate it was kinda loose with big bad blocks.


Before trundle.


Mid flight.

In 2006 the Magic Wall saw a little summer traffic. We had figured out the andesite was climbable and how to place bolts off of hooks. So Adam and I returned in the fall of 2007 and finished bolting the NW Passage.


Trundle w/ fruit boots.

As it stands the route climbs to the chains - it is 5.6 to the business, then A1 to the roof and then 5.9 (on jugs) to the double bolt anchor to the right of the ice smear. It is still waiting for a free ascent.


Tom Jungst Photo

The name comes from the NW Passage, which went ice free this past summer due to global warming. As this is an excercise in dry tooling and there is no ice needed the pun on global warming seemed appropriate.


We now have the hardest M route in the region and perhaps the state.

Post up Whit w/ some images and a grade!

Hey Marko. Just to clear things up Whit and I sent the route back to back one morning last winter after lots of work. I was using heel spurs, Whit wasnt. M11 seems like the right grade. If you dont have fruit boots get a pair, but Im sure if youve been on the route much you figured that out. Ill be back in a month lets get out this summer.