Yesterday Bud and I foolishly skipped 30 inches of pow to go mixed climbing. The day was productive with successful leads of both my new route and the Hyalite classic. Earn Your Keep is a touch harder than Come and Get It but protects really well heading to the bolts. A strange drip appeared in the last two days down low giving the opening twenty feet a really fun ice smear. The first piece should be a screw and the next piece is a fixed pecker that Kyler left because the crack that once took a stopper is choked with ice.
Come And Get It has a more demanding start than usual protected by two screws and a green C3 before pulling the first real roof. The route then moves straight up to the usuall stance where the fixed pecker is but don't clip it. Someone removed the fixed blade and relocated it next to the pecker on the left. Clip that then climb straight up on good hooks to another fixed blade. I like this line better than the old line through the small v corner. A fair run out gets you to the sinker corner where the hooks and gear improve substantially. Once at the end of the corner, committing climbing gets you onto tricky but fantastic ice. Solid WI5 to the top. This route is climbing exceptionally well. The cracks are clean, the pins are safe and the ice is superb.
Dont miss either one of these two awesome climbs. A 70 meter rope does not reach from the trees. A top rope needs two or an 80M rope. On Earn Your Keep, lower to the big ice blob stance, a 60 will get you there, daisy in and rappell off the leaver biner to the ground.
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Good work Adam, proud route
Good work Adam, proud route in real weather conditions!
Earn your keep!