New guy with some obs from the past week

Submitted by t cook on Mon, 01/19/2009 - 09:14

Howdy all, this is my first post as a new user and just wanted to pass on some observations from this past week, which I spent most of in Hyalite.  First off I wanted to thank C Hamilton again for his hospitality and representing the fine community of climbers Bozeman has.

I ran into some Service Employees while we were figuring out how to get my partners keys out of his truck which I had locked too eagerly.  We talked about the recent vandalism to the restroom facilities at the main parking lot.  They encouraged me to spread the word that if any climbers notice any new vandalism or misuse of the area , that promptly reporting it to the forest service helps them a lot and will only serve to improve the relationship between their organization and climbers.  As an FYI, new Toyota trucks are almost impossible to break into, most AAA approved services aren't aware that the road is being plowed, and AAA does not cover you on non-county maintained roads. I.E., the road from the dam to the parking lot.

I would encourage everyone to carry a knife and some leaver slings in case you find a tree that is being girdled (strangled/cut into) by a piece of old webbing that is now too tight from tree growth.  I found a few of those this week and fixed them.  Leave a biner on any slings on common routes you find without them, and tape the biner gate shut if it's not a locker.  This prolongs the life of the sling and reduces waste.

Slot Corner and Curtains got super slushy after little time in the sun and temps we had recently.  Cleos got a little slushy also after only a couple hours of sun, but is still lots of fun. Respectable Family Men, approached from Silken Falls (in great shape) is not running at all and is picked out, but still good fun. The right side is easier than the left this year.  Big pieces could start to come off soon if no water starts to reform it soon.  We experienced a combination of big dinner plating and scattered hero on ice most of these climbs.  All approaches are packed out pretty well.  I got a dozen days stomping around the snow in Hyalite and while there are unstable and potentially dangerous layers, I saw no movement anywhere.  Things seem to have settled and consolidated quite a bit, but any new loading will be an issue.

There was A TON of locals out there Saturday, mostly non-climbers, and it looks like there could be some serious parking issues on weekends now.

I know a lot of folks from my area, Jackson, check this site.  There is a good amount of beta floating around on conditions down here if anyone is in need.

Hope this wasn't too long winded, happy and safe climbing!

Ty

Thanks Ty for the update. I just posted a lengthy note about avalanche free ice routes in SW Montana. Since it includes more than just Hyalite, I put it in the Spray forum. Check it out there.
Onward, JJ