Mark Staples and I climbed the Lowe Route on the Sphinx yesterday (Sunday, Oct 14). The trail is dry, the north face just has a few cm of snow and the ice is in, but thin. Bring a few extra stubby screws. The ice was drippy and I anticipate it will get thicker quickly. The first pitch has a long way to go to form.
Vidoe about future avalanche concerns posted at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQVMAD0r2kw